ANNUAL SPRING TRIP AND SALT WATER FLY FISHING - COZUMEL FLATS, YUCATAN, MEXICO (MARCH 2015)

We took our second annual family trip to Cozumel a few weeks ago. Cozumel trips provide such excellent opportunities for the kids to be immersed in Mexican culture and the Spanish language. This year we rented a different condo with a wrap-around porch only steps from the ocean. Having immediate access to the beach from the porch was a whole different experience. So good, in fact, we've already booked the same condo for next year. Close proximity to the sand and water all week made us feel really connected to the ocean. I hooked up with a Cozumel local that I'd met the previous trip (an expat from Ventura, CA) who lent me a standup paddle board for the week. I didn't get much time to use it solo, but I at least took the kids out for a few early morning tours when the ocean was still relatively flat and glassy.

After a solid first day of playing with the kids on the beach, swimming in the pool and snorkeling, I met up with the salt water fly fishing guide, Enrique, before daybreak on Day 2. We got the usual pre-dawn start from the marina and went north and east over the shallow reef on the north side of the island with an orange equatorial sun rising to the east over the bow. We started in the northeastern corner of the salt flats and spotted several pockets of bonefish after the first hour. My accuracy with an #8 rod has improved since last season and I was landing some really great casts, but regardless, the bonefish just weren't hitting that morning. Even when you're doing everything right, sometimes bonefish aren't on the feed. Landing one is quite an experience though. They're infamous for the way they fight and will generally run 40-50 yards of line out of your reel when you strip set, sometimes twice if you're lucky.

Shallow water at mouth of the northern Cozumel flats.

Enrique, fly fishing guide.

 

We continued to walk the salt flats and Enrique and I talked about family and his experiences as a salt water fly guide, which was a really great way of jumping back into speaking Spanish. After a short break at the boat for a mid-morning cerveza, we hopped back into the boat to check out a different section of the flats further to the southwest. I fished off the bow of the boat while we were in transit and landed a small barracuda on my second cast. We jumped out near an enclosed section of flats and Enrique immediately spotted several bonefish that were "flashing", which indicated that they were on the feed. I had one take the fly on my first cast, but set the line a bit late and lost him. After waiting a few minutes and with the wind to my back (perfect for casting), we spotted another pair of bones and I landed the biggest bonefish I've caught to date. It took 10 minutes to bring him to hand and he ran the line out twice!

 

Several bonefish later, I was pretty content, so we shifted our focus onto fishing for Snook (a.k.a "Robalo" in Spanish) and possibly something to throw on the grill with butter, garlic and seasonings later that night for dinner. Unfortunately, though we could spot the Snook along the edges of the mangrove, nothing was biting despite some serious effort.

Large bonefish

Later toward the end of the week, after chasing the kids around the condo for several consecutive days, I decided it was time for a visit to the east side. The best thing about the east side is that it's almost entirely protected for sea turtle breading, so there's endless natural beach settings with few permanent structures along the 20+ mile coastline. We went to the same spot we visited last year, but the tide was high and there were heavy waves breaking over the rocks and spilling into the long tidal pool that the kids had played in the previous year. With a looming rain storm just offshore, we decided to move further north up the coast, where we found a secluded stretch of beach all to ourselves all afternoon. It's a special thing to see an empty coastline like this, given the overdeveloped and tourist-laden Riviera Maya only 60 kilometers to the west of the island.

Luca and I after crossing over a natural bridge.

We ate well all week, too, in addition to a steady supply of my powerful margaritas made with fresh lime juice. Though we shopped locally and cooked most of our meals, we had two meals prepared by the two sisters (Conchita and Reina) of the primary housekeeper (Veronica). They made lobster tail with seasoned filet of snook one night and lime soup, tostadas and marinated pork the other night. I certainly came home a few pounds heavier.

The kids made good use of the coconut palms that grow on the beach in front of the condo, which the condo staff opened using a machete. Though I'd had coconut milk plenty of times in my life, this was the definitely freshest. Unbelievably rich flavor with sweet and tender coconut meat.

Looking forward to next year already.